Travel

The Spanish Quarter in Naples

The Spanish Quarter in Naples (Image: Vita Molyneux)

When my brother and I arranged our Italian getaway, we were keen to explore somewhere slightly off the beaten track. We had previously visited the seaside town of Moneglia in Genoa, a tranquil village offering wonderful hospitality and easy access to the renowned Cinque Terre.

We had also explored the beautiful Tuscan cities of Florence and Siena, experiencing their magnificent cathedrals and rich culture. So, for this trip, we settled on the southern Italian city of Naples, renowned for its pizza, vibrant nightlife and lively cobbled streets. With flights secured, accommodation sorted and anticipation mounting, we made a discovery — virtually everyone we mentioned our plans to had an identical response — "Naples? Why would you go to Naples?"

It was portrayed to us as "ropey", "dangerous" and "scary". Worried, I turned to social media and discovered countless TikTok videos explaining why they would never return to Naples, with claims ranging from it giving 'kidnapping vibes' to assertions it was 'the most dangerous city in the world'.

To say I was alarmed would be putting it mildly - but this proved a valuable lesson in why you shouldn't trust everything you encounter online.

Our journey from the airport to our accommodation in the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter) was somewhat nerve-wracking, as Naples was unlike any other Italian city I had previously encountered.

It is undeniably a bit run down, with potholed roads and graffiti adorning the walls. Yet, there was already something endearing about it. As our flight had been delayed, we didn't touch down in Naples until around 1am, yet our Airbnb host took it upon himself to personally drive to the airport to collect us so we could gain entry, despite the ungodly hour. It was a wonderful introduction to the warmth and generosity of the Neapolitan people.

On our first day we ventured out to explore the surrounding neighbourhood and I was instantly captivated. The Quartieri Spagnoli is a labyrinthine network of cobbled streets with markets, shopfronts and homes all decorated with bunting.

Portraits of Diego Maradona, a former Napoli player who is venerated almost as a saint in Naples, grace every other wall, and photographs of him hang above the streets. The atmosphere was electric and utterly intoxicating.

A moped zips through Naples' Spanish Quarter

A moped zips through Naples' Spanish Quarter (Image: Vita Molyneux)

Even simply strolling through the city proved exhilarating. Moped riders weave past you along the narrow streets, and there are people absolutely everywhere. You scarcely know where to cast your eyes.

We opted to make the climb up to Castel Sant'Elmo, which sits majestically atop the city. Our route took us steeply upwards past stunning villas and terraces of pastel-coloured apartments; in the spring warmth, navigating the steep stairways to the castle was quite the endeavour, but the panoramic view from the summit was utterly breathtaking.

This medieval fortress dates back to 1275, where it served as an autonomous military outpost. Our tour of the castle and its walls offered breathtaking views across the Bay of Naples and towards Mount Vesuvius, which looms imposingly over Naples to the south.

Another remarkable aspect of Naples is its closeness to the ancient site of Pompeii, somewhere I had longed to visit ever since childhood.

The view over Naples from the fortress

The view over Naples from the fortress (Image: Vita Molyneux)

The ancient city, lost to the catastrophic eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D, is amongst the most remarkably preserved historical sites in the world, with everything from homes to law courts to vineyards to explore.

A mere half hour away by train, we arrived at the site early in the morning, yet the sun was already blazing down upon us.

We decided against a guided tour, opting instead for audio guides which gave us the freedom to explore at our own leisure. After speaking with the site guide, he took our maps and marked the areas he considered most worthwhile, as Pompeii is so vast it is virtually impossible to see everything in a single day.

Vita Molyneux at Pompei

Vita Molyneux at Pompei (Image: Vita Molyneux)

Taking our time, we strolled through the ancient settlement, absorbing the fascinating stories of those who had once called it home. After a full day spent on our feet, we made our way back to the city for an evening drink and a well-deserved meal.

The nightlife in Naples is unbeatable. Beginning with an aperol spritz in one of the numerous bars scattered throughout the city while watching the world go by, we proceeded to sample some extraordinary Neapolitan pizza — considered by some to be the finest in the world.

We spent three days in Naples, and we adored every moment of it. Certainly, it's hectic and crossing the road requires bravery and a general disregard for your safety, but it is so vibrant.

The city buzzes with energy, the scenery is breathtaking and the locals are marvellous.

You shouldn't believe everything you read online, as I discovered. But if you're reading this and contemplating whether you should visit Naples — trust me, you absolutely should.


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